Published at Monday, April 09th 2018. by Rubina Sibilla in Fishing Reels.
When each reel is dry lightly lubricate easily accessible moving parts. This is especially important if the reel was used in saltwater or in dirty or muddy conditions. Do not use the reel until it is fully clean as dirt and sand can cause damage.
It′s not unusual to see their tackle banging around in the back of a pickup going down a dusty road or stored in a boat locker without being washed after a day fishing in saltwater. I often see reels spooled improperly drags set incorrectly and precious fishing days ruined because a reel wouldn′t cast right.
Never put metal against metal. "Never put metal to metal when working on your reel. All reel parts are designed metal to fiber. Remember that."
Lubrication is an essential part of spinning reel maintenance. Use the oil that came with the reel or a quality after-market brand. Ball bearings and metal bushings tend to collect water and salt leading to corrosion and seizure if not oiled. It′s difficult to crank in a fish if the handle won′t turn. A little oil goes a long way though. Too much is almost as bad as not enough so apply sparingly.
There are three types of drag systems : 1. Spring and pawl or “click and pawl” systems feature a spring that pushes the prawl into a gear on the reel spool to produce a drag. Spring and pawl is best for light fishing when targeting panfish 2. Disc drag pushes a large-diameter pad against the reel spool′s braking surface. Pressure is applied directly to increase overall control and efficiency. Cork or synthetic materials like Teflon are used in disc drag systems. Cork provides a smoother more consistent pressure and can be easily adjusted. These systems are great for fighting large strong fish 3. Caliper drag systems fall between disc and spring and pawl. A caliper pad pushes against the braking surface of the spool. This friction slows the way the reel spool spins.
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